Sunday, May 17, 2015

Final Thoughts on Ciudad Juarez


Hello, everyone!  I am writing to you from my eighth-floor flat overlooking beautiful West London.  Sorry for the gap in between posts, but I suppose I was just too busy moving around the world and enjoying Home Leave with my family (more on that later).  It’s hard to believe that our two years in Ciudad Juarez have come to an end.  It was so hard saying goodbye to all of the great friends that we made in the Consulate community. 

As we drove away from the Borderland for the last time on April 1st, I wasn’t sure what I would feel.  I thought I would be overcome with happiness over the fact that I had just spent my last time dealing with the horrendous Border Patrol speed bumps, and brimming with excitement since our next tour in London was right around the corner.  But it’s hard to describe how I felt.  I suppose it was a mixture of excitement, sadness, relief, longing, and a lot of other unexpected feelings.  Juarez left much more of a mark on me than I thought it would.  It will always be special to me, and it will be the benchmark upon which all future Foreign Service posts will be judged for the rest of my career.

Juarez was a fantastic place to start my career, and I really enjoyed my time there.  Of course, living in the Borderland was not without its challenges, which is why I opted to make a list of my Top Five and Bottom Five things about Juarez.  So without further ado, onto the lists:

BOTTOM FIVE

1. CBP

There is no way to describe to those who have not experienced it for themselves the bubbling rage that surfaces whenever you have to cross the border and deal with Customs and Border Patrol.  It is an unstoppable pre-programmed response that is triggered whenever you near the border.  You could be having a great day, out on a date, laughing with your wife, listening to good music, and then a black pall of despair overtakes your vehicle as you inch closer to the security checkpoints.  You  have been sucked into a zone of waiting for no reason, answering bizarre questions, and being yelled at with no explanation.  Only when you are finally past CBP and on your way to your destination does the darkness begin to lift, and you regain your senses.  There is no avoiding it; there is no escaping it.  CBP will destroy you (or at least bum you out for a few minutes).     

2. Traffic / Road Conditions

Along the same lines as CBP, one of the biggest frustrations is how much time you spend in the car: on the bridge, waiting in lines, dodging potholes, taking construction detours, etc.  Don’t get me wrong, I love Juarez, but the city’s infrastructure could use some work.  When the new lane markings you have painted onto a brand new road have completely washed off within two months, that’s a sign that you need to change some of your basic methods of city upkeep. 

3. “Sweet Dreams Are Made of These”

Since we lived right across the border, Sarah and I opted to listen to El Paso radio stations most of the time, and let me tell you, they are AWFUL.  From the DJs to the commercials to the song selection, everything is terrible.  And the weirdest thing of all, every single radio station (pop, top 40, easy listening, mix) insisted on playing the Eurythmics’ “Sweet Dreams Are Made of These” at least ten times a day.  You think I’m joking, but I heard this song on the radio at least 15 times a week.  Come on, El Paso. Don’t do this to me!  Y’all making me hate Annie Lennox.

4. Hot Hot Hot

I love that we have sun almost every day of the year in Juarez, but if there were some way to do that without it being 15,000 degrees every time you step outside, that would be awesome.  The first time we took James outside as a newborn we used a blanket to cover up the stroller and make sure he didn’t get burned.  Of course, what we were actually doing was creating a tiny little convection oven to cook our delicate little baby.  Juarez, you almost turned my infant into a baked potato.

5. Midnight Mariachi Jam Sessions 

Just stop.  Nobody likes mariachi music at 2:00am.  Nobody!  Pack up your trumpets and go home, amigos.  These gringos are trying to get some freakin’ sleep.

TOP FIVE

1. Burritos Crisostomo

Man, these burritos are good.  One chicken molé burrito, one barbacoa burrito, and a large jicama drink are all you need for a good time.  Be sure to spend the extra 10 pesos for the avocado.  

2. The Stories

When I was training in DC to come to Ciudad Juarez, everyone kept telling me, “You will have the craziest stories after two years in CJ,” and I was not disappointed at all.  Deadbeat dads, far-fetched explanations for drug arrests, even more far-fetched explanations for gang-related tattoos, and so on.  When you interview over 15,000 people in two years, you are bound to hear some weird stuff at the window.  And I’m not even including all the people I interviewed in prison (quick aside: don’t go to prison in Mexico if you can avoid it).   

3. Mi Casa

My house was a palace by US standards.  Sarah and I really lucked out in our housing assignment.  Our house was comfortable, cozy, and had great A/C.  The kitchen was fantastic, there was plenty of storage, and I had a great commute.  Happiness is a 12-minute walk to work.

4. Estadounidenses

Not to get too sappy, but the people are really the best thing about CJ.  I absolutely loved the FSOs that I worked with in Juarez.  I have never worked with such an amazing group of talented, intelligent, committed individuals who really cared about their job.  Some of the other difficulties of a city like Juarez help to create a close-knit community of dear friends.  Here’s hoping our paths cross many times over the next few years.

5. Juarenses

As much as I love the FSOs I worked with, the Locally-Employed Staff (LES) that I worked with are the heart and soul of our operation.  Many of them have been with the Consulate for decades, and their patience, kindness, and joy for life are really what made Juarez extraordinary.  The LES, and by extension the people of Juarez as a whole, are truly special.  I’ll miss you guys most of all.  

     

Monday, March 16, 2015

Moving in the Foreign Service 101

As you can imagine, a big part of life in the Foreign Service is being prepared to move every few years.  Sarah and I like adventure, and she never likes to be in one place for too long, so we don't mind that so much.  Plus, we aren't pack rats, so we generally don't have too much to move from place to place (at least we didn't until El Señor arrived).

But moving from country to country with Uncle Sam's help can be fraught with red tape and other complications.  When we moved from one apartment to another in Arlington, we just rented a truck, moved all our things in one day, and then set up shop in the new place.  Not too bad, logistically speaking.  Not so in the Foreign Service.  Where to begin?

First off, you have to decide where all your stuff is going to go.  Your options include:

  1. Personal Items - Stay in your suitcase and travel with you.
  2. Unaccompanied Air Baggage (UAB) - A 600 lb. shipment that arrives at your new Post shortly after you do.
  3. Household Goods Shipment (HHE) - All the rest of your stuff, it usually comes to your new Post by boat, and may not arrive for months after you do (depending on customs requirements).
  4. Storage - The USG will store things for us while we live overseas free of charge, which is a great perk, especially if you are moving to a very tiny flat in London. 
  5. Trash - Sadly, not all of your possessions can go on to enjoy the bright lights of London.

So you have to start by asking yourselves the following questions:

Do I need to take this in my suitcase?  Will I use it while I'm on home leave?  Should I put these baking pans in my UAB, which arrives about ten days after I get to London?  Or should I put it in my HHE?  Are we going to need this couch?  Wait, let me look at the pictures of our apartment again.  How big is the living room?  And does that look like a closet?  Do you think we could fit our winter coats in there?  Should I leave some of the coats in storage?  Well, if I'm going to do that, why don't I just throw them away?  Why do we have so many baking pans?!?  Will this toaster oven work with the voltage in the UK?  Do we need to buy MORE CURTAINS?  WHY DID YOU THROW THAT SET OF CURTAINS OUT SIX YEARS AGO?!?  I TOLD YOU THEY COULD HAVE COME IN HANDY!  AND YOU WANT TO SELL THAT THREE-MAN TENT WE HAVEN'T USED IN SEVEN YEARS?!?  ARE YOU CRAZY!!!

As you can imagine, sometimes emotions run high.  Moving by itself is pretty stressful, but when you add the elements of deciding what goes in which of those five piles and when, it can be a bit complicated.

Plus, in the Foreign Service, your house size will vary greatly over the course of your career.  I'll admit, we basically live in a palace here in Juarez.  This home is easily twice as large as any place we have ever lived in.  London, on the other hand, will be just a tad smaller.  After that, maybe we'll be in Zimbabwe, where we'll live on land big enough to necessitate its own guard shack. You never know, which, I suppose, is part of the fun of this line of work.

Finally, unlike in the real world, in the Foreign Service the movers often come pack out all of your stuff weeks before you actually depart Post.  So, then you're just stuck in your big empty house with your government-issue furniture and the "welcome kit," a collection of sheets, towels, and cooking items meant to keep you alive before you actually leave the country.  Thankfully, Sarah in her infinite wisdom, had us make a bunch of dinners in advance and freeze them, so we'll be sitting pretty for the ten days between pack-out and our departure.

Sounds fun, right?!

In this line of work, a lot of effort goes into closing each chapter of your life, and I'm sure they'll be plenty to do to start the new chapter once we get to London.  But we wouldn't have it any other way!

Catching Up Before We Head Out of Town

Sorry it's been a while between blog posts.  Perhaps, now that I am a bit more active on Facebook, I forget to update my blog quite as often.  Or it could just be that Sarah and I are insanely busy right now.  We are leaving Post in 15 days!  Back in November, when I realized we only had five months remaining at Post, I predicted that November and December would go by quickly because of all of our holiday travel, but that January, February, and March would really draaaag.  I was very wrong.  If anything, I feel like time is speeding up!  We have movers coming to pack up all of our stuff this Thursday, and I still have a lot of logistical stuff to finish up at work.

Thankfully, Sarah always knows how to plan ahead, so we've got pre-made dinners waiting for us in the freezer, dropped off ten bags of stuff at Goodwill, sold a bunch of stuff to other folks at the Consulate, and prepped most of the house for packing.

So, let's briefly sum up what the Petersons have been up to in for the first quarter of 2015.

  • We spent early January scheduling out how to prepare for our move, since we did most of the work on Saturdays. 


  • We took a road trip to Roswell, NM.  Here we are at the International UFO Museum.  El Señor was not impressed (neither was I). 


  • On that same trip, we also made the trek through Carlsbad Caverns, which was awesome!  I definitely recommend it if you're ever in the area. 


  • El Señor has developed a love affair with magnets.  Seriously, for a few weeks in January, the only words he could say were "mama," "dada," and "magnet."  

  • We celebrated Sarah's birthday with a surprise party at work!  Happy belated birthday, babe!
  • We finally (sort-of, maybe) got our housing assignment!  It's not 100% certain, as the London housing board still needs to vote to approve it, but we are hoping to move into a very nice three-bedroom flat about two miles from the Embassy.  Fingers crossed!

  • Sarah's mom came for a visit.  We had a great time with her, and managed to take our little guy to the El Paso Zoo, which he really enjoyed (except for the elephants).  
  • Liftoff!  Right around 18 months, El Señor finally learned to walk.  There's no stopping him now.  He just loves to run (drunkenly) all over the house, and he is also picking up new words all the time.  We have officially entered the toddler stage, I suppose. 
So that's the brief summation of our activities here in the Borderland for the last few months.  I'll try to post a few more times before we leave.  Hopefully, once we have all of our stuff packed out, things will be a bit quieter.  Talk to you soon!  

Monday, December 29, 2014

Christmas 2014

Wow! Another year in the books.  It's hard to believe everything we have done in the last year, let alone just in the month of December.  At the very least, I am actually putting up my Christmas post in the month of December, which is something worth celebrating.

Sarah and I had a fantastic Christmas season, which kicked off with the US Consulate Winter Gala, which I like to refer to as "Consulate Prom."  After that, we went to a party approximately every three days, where I ate my relative weight in every type of tamale imaginable.  

It even got cold (sort of).  This winter in Juarez has not been nearly as cold as last winter, although it did cool down enough for a few weeks to necessitate blankets and beanies for our daily walks with el Señorito.

So we took some time off and made our way to sunny Mesa, AZ, to spend time with my family.  This included a thrilling ride on the train at a local park (which el Señor was not too sure about).

And some quality time with all of our little guy's cousins (which he was also not too sure about).

On the plus side, our son did get to try his first milkshake and ride plenty of slides, both of which he definitely enjoyed.

It was definitely a very busy December, but we had a great time visiting with friends and family.  It was especially nice to spend time with my family in Arizona.  Thanks to all of them for providing us with delicious food, lots of fun, and a very uncomfortable bed in the guest bedroom.  See you all in 2015!

Thursday, December 4, 2014

Happy Christmas!


I suppose it's never too early to start preparing for life in the UK.  Here's a quick primer on what to expect next Christmas.  Happy Crimbo, everybody!

Monday, October 27, 2014

The Streets of Juarez

Driving on the streets of Juarez can be a harrowing experience.  The drivers here are some of the most aggressive that I have ever seen, although, paradoxically, they are also some of the slowest.  I'm not sure how both of those things can be true.  Aside from the drivers, however, you also have to avoid the numerous potholes (which they repair by filling with sand), missing lane markers, and vendors at every traffic light, selling everything from inflatable punching bags to churros from the top of a festive sombrero (sadly, Sarah has forbidden me from ever eating a churro out of a man's hat).  At first, I viewed all of these things as somewhat of an irritant, but I have begun to appreciate them as just another unique and integral part of this city.   
     

Not everyone benefits, however.  Dogs in particular are not well taken care of.  If that picture on the left is hard to figure out, it was taken through the back windshield of a passing vehicle.  The driver had popped out the back speakers, which allowed his chihuahua mutt to sit with his body in the trunk of the car, but with his head sticking out into the cabin of the vehicle, like some sort of puppy periscope.  Not sure if this is better or worse than the poor dog on the right, who had to sit on top a pile of old scrap metal as his owner rambled through downtown Juarez.  


But the unpleasant sights (like unsafe dogs and children without seatbelts) are thankfully outweighed by the much more enjoyable bizarre sights, sounds, and smells that you find at almost every intersection.  There is almost always a juggler, gymnast, or dancer ready to show off their skills for a few pesos.  If you're hungry, why not roll down your window and buy some sunflower seeds, mangos, or a popsicle.  Just the other day, I watched a lady purchase a cob of corn from the comfort of her vehicle, and then proceed to drive around, munching on her elote and talking on her cell phone.  I literally cannot think of a worse snack to eat while driving than corn on the cob, but hey, I'm just an ignorant gringo.   


One of the things I appreciate most about Mexicans is their entrepreneurial spirit.  If there's a way to make money, they will find it.  If there is demand that needs to be filled (like people who want to eat corn while driving), they will meet that demand.  Juarez will always be unique, and the strange stuff you see every day on the street is a constant reminder of that.

Sunday, October 19, 2014

The 2014 Summer Movie Roundup!

I recognize that this is a bit late in the year to be doing my annual review of the summer move season, but as I said previously, summer seems to last in Juarez until at least Halloween, so this still counts.

This last summer, I shared the same concerns that perhaps many of you had.  Now that Ryan has a baby, will he still have enough time to go see summer movies?  What will become of the summer movie roundup tradition?  Thankfully, I was able to persevere, push past adversity, find a babysitter, and make it to the movies.  So, let's get started.

5. Godzilla

I wasn't expecting much when I heard that Godzilla was being rebooted.  I've never really been a big Godzilla fan, and pretty much everything about the the 1998 version was terrible (and yes, I'm including the Puff Daddy/Jimmy Page collaboration for the theme song).  So I was pleasantly surprised at how good this movie turned out to be.  I found it a bit odd that they spent the first hour of the film trying to solve the mystery of what was causing all these nuclear disasters (spoiler alert: it was Godzilla), but overall, very fun to watch.

4. Edge of Tomorrow

As you know, I always try to applaud originality during summer movies.  Granted, the movie is based on a graphic novel, but at least it's not a reboot/sequel/prequel/spinoff of some other film.  I know there are a lot of Tom Cruise haters out there, and the dude may be weird, but I appreciate that he's not afraid to do original, high-concept sci-fi movies.  It was a great concept with plenty of explosions, which lands it firmly at #4 on this year's list.

3. X-Men: Days of Future Past

X-Men: First Class was a fantastic movie that breathed a lot of life back into this franchise, so I thought this follow-up film would be a bit of a disappointment.  If anything, I think this film may even be the better of the two.  Time travel movies are always tricky, but this one seemed to manage without any major gaps in logic.  It also had one of the best uses of slow-motion that I have seen in a film in a long time.

2. Captain America: The Winter Soldier

This may be the best movie that came out in the summer of 2014.  It was probably the best-acted, best-made film that I saw this summer.  I even saw it one and a half times in the theater because I enjoyed it so much (the power went out the first time we went to see the movie, so we had to go back two weeks later).  Despite its awesomeness, however, it still got beat out by the surprise blockbuster of the year.

1. Guardians of the Galaxy

If Captain America is the best film that came out this summer, why is Guardians of the Galaxy my #1 choice?  Because I always look for a certain goofy, absurd quality to summer movies.  Captain America may have been the best movie, but Guardians was the most fun.  Probably the hardest I have laughed in the theater this year, as well.

So that's it.  One more year in the books.  There should be some good movies coming out next year, but, of course, I will be living in London, so it will probably cost about $40 per person to see a movie.  Hopefully, Sarah will be willing to make the investment!  Until 2015!